Click on Read Flash to pull in the current programming.If you see information populate below, you know you’re connected. Enter the COM port that was assigned by Windows.Open Windows Device Manager and look for “Ports (COM & LPT)” to find which port (COM5 shown here) the computer assigned to the cable. Connect the programming cable to a USB port on the computer.Connect the programming cable to the bike (not the controller).Disconnect the controller from the bike.There’s plenty more you can do in here, but that’s all we need right now. If your controller is hard limited to 3 or 5 power levels, I’d highly recommend the Eggrider controller as an upgrade.įollowing the 860C manual, I had to double press the “M” button, navigate to “Advance setting”, input passcode “1199” (not “1919”), and change assist levels from 5 to 9. In any case, consult with your controller’s manual to access the advanced settings to change the number of assist levels. My Luna Z1 came with a Bafang 860C controller that was set to 5 levels and is configurable to 3, 5, or 9, but that will vary by bike. It’s not required, but with this much power available, it’s best if we can access all 9 of the available power levels on the M620 drive, not just the 3 or 5 levels that are the default for many controllers. If you proceed, you are solely responsible for the consequences. I made changes thoughtfully and tested them cautiously and I strongly recommend you do the same. What I’m using is modified significantly from what my bike shipped with from the factory and from what I’ve seen others use. I relied heavily on help from the internet (thanks Karl!) in understanding these settings for myself. What is presented below works for me and my bike and I share it freely with no guarantee that it will work for you and your bike. Some of these settings can do bad things to your bike and/or your body. So, how do we tame this beast? Disclaimerīefore we go any further, a word of caution here. If you prefer to use an Eggrider, connecting and programming will look much different than what I show below, but the settings I’m using can be used with the Eggrider just the same. I have both options and they’re each great, but I prefer to use a laptop for the larger screen. Like its cousins the BBS02 and BBSHD, the M620 drive ( as long as it has the UART connector, YMMV!) is programmable using an Eggrider controller and a smartphone or a programming cable and a Windows laptop with Bafang Config Tool. However, when you’re dealing with so much power off road, in my opinion, it must be smooth and predictable so it doesn’t send you into a boulder or off the trail at the worst possible moment. That’s not a knock on Luna, necessarily, it just seems to be the preference with all of the bikes I’ve tried with this powertrain. When I started riding a Bafang Ultra M620-powered, full-suspension, Luna Z1 mountain bike, even at the lowest power level, the power delivery was, at best, startling, and, at worst, dangerous. The Bafang Ultra M620 is as close as it gets to my ideal powertrain since it has a throttle and can output 1500 Watts with simple software tweaks! I also prefer powertrains that have throttles (is it really a “throttle” on an electric bike?) and are user-programmable which lets us go beyond the typical street limits of 250-750 Watts of power. Which one is better for your needs depends largely on your personal preferences and riding styles, but ideally, I’d like to have both! Ample power with smooth delivery can make climbing hills as much fun as descending. Some manufacturers like Bosch, Brose, and Yamaha focus on making them as light as possible with just enough power and smooth delivery of that power, where others, like Bafang, are often criticized for not being as smooth and responsive with all that There’s a lot of diversity in the world of ebike power systems.
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